䏻登二口屋 菓子重 Imperial Sweet Box from NIKUCHIYA in EDO Period
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能登二口屋 菓子重
Imperial sweet box from NIKUCHIYA in Edo period
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和菓子はお好きでしょうか。
日本の18〜19世紀の江戸情景を想像してみますと、多くの歴史に残る人物たちが菓子との思い出をつづっております。
有名な虎屋文庫ご執筆「和菓子を愛した人たち」という本にあるように【甘味のご褒美】の味は多様にあって、お店の味を守る職人さんは多くの方に愛されてリスペクトされ、とても興味深いですね。
この【菓子重】には、
「䏻登掾(旧字体「能登」「掾:町人、職人、芸能人など地下(じげ)の者が受領した名誉称号」)」
「二口屋」
「十四」の朱文字。
調べましたところ、江戸時代の京都にて皇宮中御所(禁裏)に菓子をおさめていた商家【二口屋䏻登】のお名前かと見受けられます。
俳諧師・浮世草子作者の井原西鶴(1642~1693)は【二口屋䏻登】の饅頭を自作品「好色一代男」の主人公の土産として「二口屋䏻登は、饅頭を900個その夜のうちに作りあげた」と記したとか。
さて、その京都の評判記にも名を残した二口屋さんは、江戸後期に営業権を虎屋様に譲渡しました。二口屋の屋号は残し、虎屋敷地内に看板だけ掲げ、虎屋店主の兄弟を名目上の二口屋店主に据えたとのこと。
その当時の虎屋様の【ビジネス投資】のドラマ。
また、二口屋さんの歴史とは?こんなに輝く箱を【十四】個も用意し、宮廷のための饅頭を作っていた方って、どんな方だったんだろう。この豪華な箱から出てくる饅頭や和菓子は、どんなものなのか。
小さい菓子重を宮中まで届ける世界。手汗で傑作のお餅を入れた菓子重が「ずれないか、、、落とさないように、、、」と毎日のご苦労を想像すると、、、
お仕事のレベルは、江戸のミシュランだったんだろうと感じました。
(全執筆の中で、二口屋様のご情報のみ「井原西鶴と日本一の饅頭(虎屋様2010年ご執筆)」より引用)
【The effort of Confectionery Chef in EDO PERIOD 18 to 19 Centuries】
Have you ever tasted Japanese sweet WAGASHI?
Japanese sweet is not only to enjoy indulgent taste, you could see it as "OBJECT" to enjoy visually like the artistic work.
This box is from a Japanese confection purveyor, 二口屋 NIKUCHIYA, who served their sweets to the imperial samurai castle in EDO period.
Today, 虎屋 TORAYA is very known as Japanese confectionery brand from same EDO period historically in Japan. And this 二口屋 was acquired by 虎屋 with their business strategy in EDO period since both of them were well known as 禁裏御用 KINRIGOYO the business companies who was permitted to serve their service to the imperial samurai castle in EDO period.
But that is not the charming point of this artistic box.
HOW TINY BOX IT IS!? There is 5 layers and room in this box. You could see that room for each layers are 1.8cm = 0.7inch height and 11.8cm = 4.64inch.
We could imagine what Japanese imperial samurai in 18 to 19 centuries ordered was very tiny sweets but the sweet should be tremendously unforgettable taste since the box is GOLD and gorgeous like telling "there is treasure inside of this box."
There is red letters:
"二口屋" "䏻登掾" The confectionery name and the letter of 掾 was permitted to use for people who is normal hierarchy people in town who got the title of honor from emperor.
"十四" number 14
Samurai emperor might order 14 boxes (or more) to serve this confectionery's sweets to their guest at imperial castle.
As long as you could imagine how the NIKUCHIYA chef should have life-threatening risk and nervous moments in his/her life.
Emperor trusted this confectionery not putting poison in sweets and ordered over 14 boxes, since it should be the taste of their sweet was unforgettable and respectable.
Also, how the drama to bring delicate sweet boxes to samurai castle with sweaty hands? This box decorated with this gold and inlaid mother-of-pearl marked, should be slippy. Big nervous but professional work is required, like today's Michelin awarded chefs.
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